On this frigid March night in 2002, the aurora borealis danced in the sky above the log cabin on the shore of frozen Blachford Lake southeast of the town of Yellowknife, Northwest Territories, Canada, providing sufficient illumination to travel without artificial lighting.  With only a wood-burning stove for heat, an oil lantern for light and no indoor plumbing, this was my home for a week―and truly a journey back in time.  And there's no better way to appreciate the awesome beauty and magic of the aurora than from such a pristine and remote arctic location as this.